Wine region / Country
Hauner Iancura 2016 (2 bottles)
Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2012 (2 bottles)
Tasca d'Almerita Malvasia Capofaro 2016 (0.5l) (2 bottles)
Normal retail price: £115.17
Club Discount Price: £101.44
You save: £13.73 (11.92%)
Although ancient plants, actually, terraced plants, were also present in Filicudi and Stromboli, today Eolian viticulture is concentrated in Salina and Lipari, and to a lesser extent in Vulcano and Panarea. The grape has a delicate but inebriating aroma, after the drying out the Aolian Malvasia assumes a colour between the golden and the amber, notes of citrus peel, saffron, dry fig, flint. The taste is minerally, refreshing, of great body: one of Italy's most balanced sweet wines, just waiting to debunk any preconception.
This Malvasia can also undergo very limited drying, thereby acquiring the characteristics of a soft aperitif wine, for all palates, especially those craving unrivalled elegance. Or even with no drying under the sun: in Salina, among the magnificent pumice of upper Lipari, Malvasia is in fact more often denser. An exceptional product for its fragrance and minerality, cheerfulness and conviviality, amazing with the typical fish dishes flavoured with native herbs of the archipelago.
What about the reds? The Nero d'Avola and the Nerelli from Etna between Salina and Lipari, where the volcanic scoria has left the land the most characteristic of the islands, produce exceptional results, and indeed are indigenous grape varieties. The redsare a wonderful drop, subtle, sharp, incredibly minerally and longevity: so summery, thus agile and dazzling as they are opulent, rich, full of Mediterranean élan and depth, both fruity and briny.
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White. Carlo Hauner Sicilia, Italy Malvasia delle Lipari, Insolia
Bottle: £9.81 club members / £11.11 non-members
A prototype of young and volcanic wine, vinified and refined briefly in steel alone, Iancura is one of the greatest Aeolian whites. It is subtle, straw-coloured, with reflections between golden and greenish. On the nose it is an extraordinarily dynamic mineral explosion, which counteracts the flower and crunchy peach and apricot, always gentle and delicate, and the rousing aroma of Malvasia combined with the elegant and subtle aromas of the Insolia. Fruit, aroma and salinity come into perfect alignment on the palate, which is fresh, lively, Mediterranean, fully harmonious, reasonably soft, of good body and surprising persistence, that brings to mind flint and the rustic and enveloping nature of the volcano.
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Red. Tenuta di Castellaro Sicilia, Italy Corinto, Nero d'Avola, Varie
Bottle: £19.68 club members / £22.36 non-members
From some of the steepest and most heroic slopes in Lipari, 350 metres above sea level, this Nero Ossidiana is born. A distinctive wine, austere and full of character, that spontaneously ferments and is stored, without clarification, only in large wood barrels after a long maceration. The mixture is typical, traditional, native, with one of the finest Nero D'Avolas of the archipelago combined with a fantastic Corinto Nero. This is the vine that best of all Tenuta di Castellaro is exploiting to go beyond the pale supporting role of a colourant in Malvasia delle Lipari.
The name of the wine is taken from black obsidian, a stone that, like pumice, shapes the landscape of Lipari together with the wind and the sea. But is also provides an incredible amplitude of sensations. Impenetrable to the eye, to the nose it is a triumph of red fruits and wet earth, typical of the Corinto, but also subtle spices, white pepper, flint. The taste is sumptuous but agile, exquisite to drink, elegant, fresh, of impeccable minerality, juicy, saline, with a fascinating and long-lasting finish.
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Sweet. Tasca d'Almerita Salina, Italy Malvasia delle Lipari
Bottle: £21.23 club members / £24.12 non-members
After harvest, Capofaro is definitely "the" Malvasia of Tasca d'Almerita. A modern, agile and convivial interpretation of this immensely historical wine. The management of the vineyard, which is left with abundant vegetation, saves the grapes from excessive concentration before harvest. And the process of drying out on racks - not in the sun but in a large, well-ventilated room for just a few days - exalts the subtle elegance in the proximity of natural opulence, and vinification only in steel keeps the impressive aromatic amplitude intact.
Sure, these are radical choices, that have placed this product outside the DOC Malvasia delle Lipari. But, together with its low alcoholic strength, this has decreed the success of this jewel of Salina, the most prized fruit of one of the most enchanting and futuristic estates of all of Sicily. Of intense golden yellow but shiny, the aroma of Capofaro reveals decisive notes of apricot, candied citrus, citronella and saffron. On the palate, it astonishes for the incredible and indefatigable harmony that governs the sweetness, gentle and never over-the-top, and the acidity of straightforward minerality, savoury and volcanic, which gives almond notes to the final of great charm.
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