July 2017 Selection

The great excellences of the Aeolian Islands

July 2017 Selection

Hauner Iancura 2016 (2 bottles)
Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2012 (2 bottles)
Tasca d'Almerita Malvasia Capofaro 2016 (0.5l) (2 bottles)

Normal retail price: £115.17
Club Discount Price: £101.44
You save: £13.73 (11.92%)

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About this selection...

Dozens of volcanoes: these are the Aeolian Islands, where viticulture has been rooted since ancient times and still today, after the substantial recovery of land and vineyards which has occurred since the mid-twentieth century, strikingly evocative wines of unique intensity are produced. The land, ça va sans dire, arevolcanic, but the sea and wind also play an essential role in the mineral concentration of Malvasia grapes, which enhance their aroma after the skilful drying on sunbeds.

Although ancient plants, actually, terraced plants, were also present in Filicudi and Stromboli, today Eolian viticulture is concentrated in Salina and Lipari, and to a lesser extent in Vulcano and Panarea. The grape has a delicate but inebriating aroma, after the drying out the Aolian Malvasia assumes a colour between the golden and the amber, notes of citrus peel, saffron, dry fig, flint. The taste is minerally, refreshing, of great body: one of Italy's most balanced sweet wines, just waiting to debunk any preconception.

This Malvasia can also undergo very limited drying, thereby acquiring the characteristics of a soft aperitif wine, for all palates, especially those craving unrivalled elegance. Or even with no drying under the sun: in Salina, among the magnificent pumice of upper Lipari, Malvasia is in fact more often denser. An exceptional product for its fragrance and minerality, cheerfulness and conviviality, amazing with the typical fish dishes flavoured with native herbs of the archipelago.

What about the reds? The Nero d'Avola and the Nerelli from Etna between Salina and Lipari, where the volcanic scoria has left the land the most characteristic of the islands, produce exceptional results, and indeed are indigenous grape varieties. The redsare a wonderful drop, subtle, sharp, incredibly minerally and longevity: so summery, thus agile and dazzling as they are opulent, rich, full of Mediterranean élan and depth, both fruity and briny.

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Hauner Iancura 2016 (2 bottles)

White. Carlo Hauner Sicilia, Italy Malvasia delle Lipari, Insolia

Bottle: £9.81 club members / £11.11 non-members

Of the Eolian wineries, Hauner definitely needs no presentation. Carlo Hauner's winery is, in fact, a symbol of the recovery of the vineyard on Salina, and was the undisputed star of the recognisability of Aeolian wine in the world. From some of the best vineyards located in various locations on the island of Salina, Iancura is a tangibly young and agile product, but at the same time a true paradigm of excellence that the dry-produced Malvasia delle Lipari is able to achieve.

A prototype of young and volcanic wine, vinified and refined briefly in steel alone, Iancura is one of the greatest Aeolian whites. It is subtle, straw-coloured, with reflections between golden and greenish. On the nose it is an extraordinarily dynamic mineral explosion, which counteracts the flower and crunchy peach and apricot, always gentle and delicate, and the rousing aroma of Malvasia combined with the elegant and subtle aromas of the Insolia. Fruit, aroma and salinity come into perfect alignment on the palate, which is fresh, lively, Mediterranean, fully harmonious, reasonably soft, of good body and surprising persistence, that brings to mind flint and the rustic and enveloping nature of the volcano.

Grilled swordfish

  • Alcohol content: 13,0%
  • Optimum serving temperature: Between 6ºC and 8ºC

Hauner Iancura 2016
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Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2012 (2 bottles)

Red. Tenuta di Castellaro Sicilia, Italy Corinto, Nero d'Avola, Varie

Bottle: £19.68 club members / £22.36 non-members

In the Aeolian region, one of the most active and dynamic in the rebirth of Sicilian viticulture, Tenuta di Castellaro is one of the representative wineries. In upper Lipari, where the typically volcanic-sandy terrains are combined with pumice and a windy and temperate climate, the challenge to create elegance and sensory subtlety has definitely been met by one of the most modern, integrated and forward-looking wineries in the region.

From some of the steepest and most heroic slopes in Lipari, 350 metres above sea level, this Nero Ossidiana is born. A distinctive wine, austere and full of character, that spontaneously ferments and is stored, without clarification, only in large wood barrels after a long maceration. The mixture is typical, traditional, native, with one of the finest Nero D'Avolas of the archipelago combined with a fantastic Corinto Nero. This is the vine that best of all Tenuta di Castellaro is exploiting to go beyond the pale supporting role of a colourant in Malvasia delle Lipari.

The name of the wine is taken from black obsidian, a stone that, like pumice, shapes the landscape of Lipari together with the wind and the sea. But is also provides an incredible amplitude of sensations. Impenetrable to the eye, to the nose it is a triumph of red fruits and wet earth, typical of the Corinto, but also subtle spices, white pepper, flint. The taste is sumptuous but agile, exquisite to drink, elegant, fresh, of impeccable minerality, juicy, saline, with a fascinating and long-lasting finish.

Roast meats

  • Alcohol content: 13,5%
  • Optimum serving temperature: Between 16ºC and 18ºC
  • Drink now or keep until 2022.

Tenuta di Castellaro Nero Ossidiana 2012
Front and back

Tasca d'Almerita Malvasia Capofaro 2016 (0.5l) (2 bottles)

Sweet. Tasca d'Almerita Salina, Italy Malvasia delle Lipari

Bottle: £21.23 club members / £24.12 non-members

In that steep corner of Salina that slopes to the north towards the sea, boasting a wonderful view taking in the area from Stromboli to Filicudi, Capofaro is a true Malvasia delle Lipari cru. Indeed, according to many, the perfect exposure to sea breezes and the relatively low altitude of these very orderly vineyards means that the grapes are imbibed with an aromatic concentration that find few equals in the Aeolian archipelago.

After harvest, Capofaro is definitely "the" Malvasia of Tasca d'Almerita. A modern, agile and convivial interpretation of this immensely historical wine. The management of the vineyard, which is left with abundant vegetation, saves the grapes from excessive concentration before harvest. And the process of drying out on racks - not in the sun but in a large, well-ventilated room for just a few days - exalts the subtle elegance in the proximity of natural opulence, and vinification only in steel keeps the impressive aromatic amplitude intact.

Sure, these are radical choices, that have placed this product outside the DOC Malvasia delle Lipari. But, together with its low alcoholic strength, this has decreed the success of this jewel of Salina, the most prized fruit of one of the most enchanting and futuristic estates of all of Sicily. Of intense golden yellow but shiny, the aroma of Capofaro reveals decisive notes of apricot, candied citrus, citronella and saffron. On the palate, it astonishes for the incredible and indefatigable harmony that governs the sweetness, gentle and never over-the-top, and the acidity of straightforward minerality, savoury and volcanic, which gives almond notes to the final of great charm.

  • Alcohol content: 12,0%
  • Optimum serving temperature: Between 10ºC and 12ºC

Tasca d'Almerita Malvasia Capofaro 2016 (0.5l)
Front and back

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