Cultivated in Nebbiolo well before the Langhe, in the last hundred years Northern Piedmont has lost about 90% of its wine heritage. The vineyards now appear to be clinging to
heroic slopes, and appear suddenly within clearings in the dense forests of this area. Here, amongst the provinces of Novara, Vercelli and Biella, Nebbiolo takes on an unmistakable character. Less structured than that of the Langhe,
it gains enormously in finesse and aromatic depth, giving, thanks to the
strong minerality, which is sometimes ferrous, an incredible longevity.
This is due to the exposures, the considerable altitude and the tense and foggy climate, but above all the soils. Although fragmented in many small denominations, the district of North Piedmont is almost entirely on volcanic soils deriving from the prehistoric explosion of a crater that has littered the soil with a strong porphyry component. Poor and mineral soils, therefore great wines.
Sharp and taut in youth, perhaps more than Langaroli, Nebbiolo in these areas was traditionally combined with softer and more aromatic grapes, such as Vespolina. This is a wise practice, which makes these wines more affable, and which is still used in the specification of many denominations. But for lovers of the extreme, here pure Nebbiolo does not disappoint. The waiting times are very long, but the emotions it gives are without comparison. Like Ghemme and Gattinara, where some historical crus are already used, such as Molsino, Osso San Grato, Valferana. While in Boca and in the Bramaterra blends are still loves, and it's a marvel.
More towards Biella, Lessona benefits instead from sandy and mineral soils, which are often yellowish, suited to big reds with a sapid and spicy inclination. Here too crus like San Sebastiano allo Zoppo embody pieces of Italian wine history. And then the jewel in the crown, Carema, on the border with Valle d'Aosta. Here a mountain Nebbiolo rises along impressive terracing on very steep slopes. An unmissable spectacle, even though production is very limited.