Wine region / Country
Ca' Lojera Lugana 2017 (2 bottles)
Ottella Lugana Riserva Molceo 2015 (2 bottles)
Cà Maiol Lugana Fabio Contato 2016 (2 bottles)
Normal retail price: £107.60
Club Discount Price: £94.50
You save: £13.10 (12.17%)
Lugana is the most notable of Lombardy's white wines and it's also one of Italy's most highly-acclaimed wines. Originating from a tiny area to the south of Lake Garda, lying among the gentle, legendary hills of chalk and clay surrounding Desenzano, Sirmione and, then in the Veneto, Peschiera. Here, the climate, lake and land offer vineyards and people too a breezy habitat and pleasant conditions.
The land where Catullus was born is also the ideal birthplace for an elegant Trebbiano, with personality and unquestionable quality: the Trebbiano di Lugana. A grape variety which can be enjoyed in fresh young wines, sometimes sparkling, but also in other more developed and even sweet wines.
The Lugana is a complex wine which appears a yellow colour with greenish and golden hues. On the nose it reveals floral scents and fruity notes which range from citrus to apple and peach. It often also conveys a lovely mineral undertone and always conserves an exceptional fineness and freshness which endow the wine with a long ageing potential.
Our selection of the month reflects this extraordinary variety. The Ca' Lojera Lugana, aged only in steel, from one of the most historic families of the Lombard side of the appellation, interprets the verticality and freshness of the purest terroir. Molceo, a multi award-winning reserve from the Veneto DOC segment, combines the perfect combination of terroir and aging, giving, thanks to a minimal touch of wood, long-lasting emotions. And finally, the Fabio Contato, with 6 months in barrique that enhance the potential of a structured Lugana, long-lived, rousing, international.
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White. Ca' Lojera Lugana, Italy Trebbiano di Lugana
Bottle: £9.24 club members / £10.62 non-members
In this area, once rich in irrigation ditches and fountains that were believed to be populated by wolves, the lands are today predominantly clayey and very moderately hilly, with a beautiful view of Lake Garda. Here some strains, which existed before the winery revolution, have survived for over fifty years.
The philosophy of the Tiraboschis, Independent Winemakers, is clear: their Luganas represent the territory in a straight-forward manner, and therefore everything is based on verticality, freshness and minerality, without pandering concessions to the structure or to excessively pretentious refinements. Except for Lugana Superiore, which stays for two years in wood (but they are large barrels that do not denature the terroir), and even the Riserva del Lupo, made from partially botrytised grapes, stored only in steel.
The Lugana vintage is a masterpiece of the essence of this typology. Straw-coloured with clear greenish tinges, although they become gilded with age, the bouquet is almost hypnotic with its mineral and floral carat, with its very delicate, almost allusive, notes of jasmine, elderflower, yellow plum, even mint and marjoram. Only apparently evanescent, on the palate it shows the strong personality of the cerebral wine, delicate in structure but powerful in the fresh, sapid and almond-like backbone.
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White. Ottella Lugana, Italy Trebbiano di Lugana
Bottle: £14.52 club members / £16.51 non-members
Ottella boasts a very respectable group of Turbiana vineyards, with over 50-year-old rows that surround the property in a beautiful landscape of excellence. The soils are morainic and clayey, which give a structured but at the same time long-lasting and vertical Lugana. Molceo represents the superior expression of this productive philosophy offered by nature.
From grapes harvested late in October, Molceo is a Lugana Reserve which, however, is aged in wood only to a small extent, using tonneaux and barriques, which very gracefully accompany the 16 months of resting of the wine in stainless steel on the fine lees. A reserve, therefore, in its own right, but which tells the story of the territory in an expressive and natural way, without the excesses of a too marked aging in wood.
Golden, clear, intense in colour, delicately straw-coloured in its youth, Molceo's bouquet opens up immediately with fruity notes, which outline its bewitching, penetrating and complex trait. Characterised by hints of citrus, the bouquet is innervated with a mineral note that, fine and elegant in the early years, is destined to explode with richness and breadth with aging, announcing clear hints of hydrocarbon. It is also mineral, which is fascinating, long, very lively, both in persistence and in the rigorous correspondence of the aromas. The acidic backbone is at the forefront, but it is accompanied by a pleasant softness: an ideal prelude to a harmonious and endless longevity.
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White. Cà Maiol Lugana, Italy Trebbiano di Lugana
Bottle: £23.49 club members / £26.68 non-members
For the Contaldos, 160 hectares and over a million and a half bottles does not mean compromises with quality. On the contrary, it seems that the extension of production has a strong link with qualitative research. The Lugana di Cà Maiol are, it must be said, for all tastes. There is the vertical and sharp version, strictly vintage and in steel only. The Molin is one of the most awarded and appreciated Luganas. And then there is the more creamy, sumptuous and opulent Lugana, which finds its home of choice in wood. This is the Fabio Contato: a Trebbiano di Lugana taken to the nth degree in its own ambitions of long-lived and structured grapes.
Aged 6 months in steel, 6 months in barrique and 6 months in bottle, it takes its name from the first-born of the Walter Contato family and represents the winery’s best qualitative expression. Intense straw yellow with gold reflections, the bouquet exhibits great complexity and breadth of aromas, with cedar, yellow melon, slightly spicy touches of cumin and ginger. The evolution of the wine offers hints of pearl barley, yellow peach and lavender. Soft and enveloping on the palate, it had a sapidity that interacts perfectly with its acidity and softness, reminiscent of aromas of yellow raspberries and saffron. Long-lasting persistence, it is a Lugana that goes beyond Lugana.
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