Wine region / Country
Pacherhof Kerner 2018 (2 bottles)
Gino Pedrotti Rebo 2015 (2 bottles)
Vignalta Manzoni Bianco Agno Casto 2018 (2 bottles)
Normal retail price: £96.73
Club Discount Price: £85.03
You save: £11.70 (12.09%)
Once other solutions to prevent phylloxera were founf, therefore, the guiding light of the new "crossbreeding-seekers" soon became no longer the strength of the plant, but rather the pleasure of the wine. The combination of grapes of strong aromaticity and great minerality, for example, turned out to be the best route for some, like the Swiss oenologist Hermann Müller, a native of Thurgau, who at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth century produced the Müller-Thurgau from the crossbreeding of Riesling and Sylvaner.
A Nordic school matter, crossbreeding became increasingly successful and Müller's "grandchildren" multiplied. In 1929 Kerner was born. It was the work of the German August Karl Herold, who obtained it by crossing Riesling with Schiava, a native red grape of Trentino and Alto Adige, and named it in honour of the poet Justinus Kerner, author of verses dedicated to wine. An interesting mix of musky, aromatic, mineral and tropical notes, Kerner is a fantastic pop version of Riesling.
In the same years, professor Luigi Manzoni was operating in Italy. At the Oenological School of Conegliano, of which he was the principal, Manzoni, a man of profound education and great taste, studied his famous crossbreedings, destined to become some of the most upright and appreciated wines of the Triveneto. The most famous is definitely the Manzoni Bianco, from Riesling and Pinot Bianco: a wine that always surprises for character, body and longevity, a splendid example of Manzoni's ability in combining international grapes to create new and loyal interpreters of the territory.
The Rebo is instead the creature of the Trentino agronomist Rebo Rigotti. Created since the 1920s, it combines the international Merlot with the native Teroldego. The purpose was to provide a more resistant grape to the poor Merlot areas, and at the same time to produce a larger and more structured red wine than the local Marzemino. But what happened was much more: a red of character and structure, certainly full-bodied like the Merlot, but able to seduce with its notes of violet and undergrowth and with its profile which is, at the same time, rustic and harmonious. Needless to say, these are also the features of a great Teroldego.
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White. Pacherhof Alto Adige, Italy Kerner
Bottle: £13.83 club members / £15.77 non-members
Among the little more than one hundred thousand bottles per year that the farm produces, there is also Kerner. A product closely linked to Pacherhof, as it is to the family of Andreas Huber that, according to many, the introduction of this variety in the Isarco Valley is due. A precise, harmonious and elegant Kerner, of exceptional cleanliness and olfactory richness, which fully reflects the Pacherhof style. A semi-aromatic white grape variety, the Kerner was created in 1929 by August Herold, who crossed Schiava Grossa and Riesling and obtained a grape that recalls the minerality of the latter while offering the most pop and snappy sensations of an aromatic of greater body and with more definite fruity and floral notes.
From the ordered and grassy rows of Pacherhof, from this both rigid and sweet climate, comes a Kerner which is in all respects paradigmatic of the typology, as well as of the terroir. Of a delicate straw yellow colour, on the nose it expresses ample and complex sensations of aromatic herbs, wild flowers, broom, lime, kiwi and nutmeg. The splendid spicy and at the same time citrus progression lures you to drink it. The bouquet is persuasive and enveloping, but not tiring. A forthright and fresh wine, Pacherhof's Kerner excels in structure and above all in flavour, bringing with it a respectable aromatic persistence.
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Red. Gino Pedrotti Trentino, Italy Rebo
Bottle: £14.34 club members / £16.30 non-members
Giuseppe, like his father Gino, is an "complete" winemaker, without compromising respect for the land, biodiversity and interventionism in the cellar. His wines are natural, but clean and full of sensations, as well as history. Wines that evoke the dreamy climate of the Castle of Toblino, but that convey sincere, clear, at times decisive aromas and flavours. You can see this in the Vino Santo, Giuseppe’s crown jewel and a product that the family protects and has contributed extensively to saving it from extinction. A Nosiola which is dried for a long time and then aged for over ten years. A masterpiece that, like all Pedrotti wines, respects the principles of spontaneous fermentation and strictly indigenous yeasts.
In this valley, where silence dominates the most peaceful nights and afternoons, Giuseppe owns thirteen different plots, which guarantee him no more than 25,000 bottles a year. Among the local varieties, besides the Nosiola, the Pedrottis grow a splendid Rebo. It is a red-berried grape created in 1948 by the agronomist Rebo Rigotti of the Agricultural Institute of San Michele dell'Adige, crossbreeding Teroldego and Merlot to create a product that combines the gentleness of the perfumes of the former with the structure and strength of the latter.
The Pedrotti Rebo does not disappoint expectations, actually it surpasses them. Here the Rebus variety shows its personal and original character, which produces wines without frills, territorial and extremely enjoyable. Intense red in colour but with persistent cherry nuances, on the nose the Rebus highlights a rustic herbaceous note that opens gradually into a beautiful initially vinous note, then pleasantly fruity and floral. The bouquet’s dynamic and fragrant approach is confirmed on the palate, with its beautiful balance between the structure, which is anything but overbearing, and the tannin, which is stark but integrated. Savoury and caressing, it is at the same time lively, crisp and agile, so much so that it lends itself to varied combinations, from the typical salted meat to seasoned cheeses. Excellent for those who do not like strong reds, but also for those who, even in summer, cannot do without red.
Meats cooked on hot stone / cured cheeses
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White. Vignalta Veneto, Italy Manzoni Bianco
Bottle: £14.34 club members / £16.30 non-members
Vignalta is a winery that needs no introduction. It is to this winery, and to the foresight of characters such as Lucio Gomiero, Luciano Salvagnin and Paolo Guzzo, that the development of the Euganean Hills is due. On these hills, which Petrarca and Foscolo immortalised with their extraordinary verses, some of the greatest Bordeaux blends in Italy are made. The reason? The perfect exposition of the numerous crus of these hills, which stand out, unique, from the Venetian plain, and which have prevailing volcanic origin. Body, wealth and minerality in bucket-fulls, therefore.
Vignalta rises in the southern area of the Euganean Hills, generally considered the best performing. The vineyards, which have their epicentre in Arquà, are however scattered throughout the denomination, and from that of Faedo, the centre of the DOC, at the foot of Mount Venda, comes Manzoni, which is perhaps the most significant white in the winery’s range.
Straw yellow in colour, which is somewhat intense, already its colour suggests its own aromatic temperament. Which is definitely vegetable, with hints of aromatic herbs, sage, thyme, oregano, but is also floral, with hints of acacia, fruity, with a citrusy edge. On the palate Agno Casto turns out to be structured and of good pseudo-heat, but without being tiring. The acidity, in fact, gallops along, flanked by the flavour that the volcanic terroir had promised. It is a generous wine, and overall it is enveloping and fruity, with retronasal flavours of peach and pineapple. It closes with a very long persistence, with a sharp ending, which reveals the natural complexity of the vine, as Agno Casto - it is worthwhile remembering - ages exclusively in steel, for about six months.
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